Only when the decoy is proficient at drills without dogs should the added complication of a living animal be introduced. When he can read dogs, speak properly with his own body, control his approach and the sleeve arm minimize the chances of injuring or discouraging the dog, place the dog exactly where the trainer wants it on the sleeve, and work it in a stimulating yet safe manner. Once it gets there, he is ready to start working with dogs under the supervision of an experienced mentor. And this is just for basic on-leash work. It says nothing of moving pursuits, stick and weapon work, realistic scenarios with hidden sleeves, muzzle agitation, full-body suits, multiple assailants and so on. The list could go on, but the point should be clear: Becoming a good decoy is not a simple matter. It requires technical schooling in subjects and skills that take time to master. There are always enough people available to put on a sleeve and "take a bite", but there are never enough good decoys.
It is important for the decoy to give the right signals according to the dog and the desired outcome. Note that the shoulders are rotated slightly, eye contact has been broken. I present much less of a challenge to a dominant dog and less frightening to the weak of heart .The intensity of the threat is lowered by me making whining noises rather than being silent .
The good decoy is an expert in canine communication, understands what the dog is saying at all times, and understands what actions are appropriate to fit the trainer's overall plan for the dog. To do this the decoy begins by studying the ''language'' of the dog until he can read dogs well. Then the decoy must learn how to speak back to the dog, using the same body gestures and behaviours that dogs use to communicate with each other. This of course requires the decoy to be in good physical condition and to have timing and coordination.
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